Marrakesh, Morocco - Few oriental cities can compete with Marrakech and its richly decorated palaces, Koran schools, bazars, hawkers and a market that could be in the Middle Ages.

Camels waiting on the outskirts of the city take you on a ride through the green palm oasis while the mighty Atlas Mountains shimmer in the background.

A 12-kilometre wall, the Medina, surrounds the old city. For many centuries, the wall that is up to two metres thick and nine metres high served as a base for caravans.

The alleyways are too narrow for cars to travel through and are frequented by pedestrians, donkey carts and scooters. In contrast to many old European cities, houses in Marrakesh are mostly windowless with plain exterior walls and look rather unwelcoming.

But the elaborately decorated gates give some indication of the architectural jewels that lie hidden behind the rough facades.

The old palaces of the tradesmen are called 'Riads' and rooms are grouped around green inner courts. The walls have colourful tiles and the ceilings have been painted by artists. Many of the 'Riads' today are hotels or restaurants and can be viewed at leisure while drinking a cup of tea or eating couscous.

Some of the luxury once enjoyed by the oriental rulers can be seen in the Bahia palace that was built around 1900 and is still well preserved. All that remains of the much older El Badi palace are a few clay foundations.

Marrakesh would only be half as attractive without the colour, the fragrance and the bustle of the streets. Arts and craftsmen can be seen going about their tasks. Hawkers offer tourists anything from carpets, clothing, jewellery to lamps. But visitors are warned to inspect the quality closely and to bargain for a good price.

The Djeema el Fna square is at the heart of Marrakesh. Famous authors like Elias Canetti wrote fascinating stories in this maze of buildings. Hundreds of onlookers watch magicians, boxing fights and snake charmers there while bands play typical Moroccan folk songs and perform stage acts.

Healers can be seen selling anything from salts and herbs to dried leguans and hedgehogs. The water bearers with their elaborate costumes are only too ready to pose for holiday snapshots.

Nature and solitude can be found on an excursion to the Atlas Mountains. The Berber villages of Imlil and Oukaimeden are about a two-hour car drive from Marrakesh and an ideal starting point for a tour up the 4,167-metre Jebel Toubkal. But take at least three days for an expedition to the icy summit.

Many of the locals willingly act as a guide and rent out tents, donkeys, skis and hand-painted maps. No guide is needed for a smaller tour as the paths are visible and the walks are not strenuous.

With little rainfall in the region, only a few bushes, thorns and grasses grow on the mountain. The vegetation is only plentiful near the streams. Higher up, the path winds itself around craggy cliffs, rocks and snow.

Accommodation on the mountain is available in huts like the Neltner huts at 3,200 metres which can be reached fairly easily from Imlil. From here it takes only about three hours to reach the summit of Jebel Toubkal.

From the summit there is a lovely view of the mountain range. According to Greek mythology, Atlas was a Titan forced to bear the weight of heaven for fighting against the Gods.

Indeed heaven and earth seem to melt together. Mountain climbers should be aware that the weather can change from minute to minute with sudden clouds of fog, snow and icy winds.

source: © 2006 dpa - Deutsche Presse-Agentur